The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces
Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds gather.
This is perhaps the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with round mauve berries on a sprawling allotment situated between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.
"I've noticed people concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He's organized a loose collective of cultivators who make wine from several discreet city grape gardens nestled in private yards and allotments across the city. The project is sufficiently underground to have an official name so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Wine Gardens Across the World
To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which features better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of the French capital's historic Montmartre area and more than three thousand grapevines with views of and within the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them all over the globe, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist cities stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces preserve land from development by creating long-term, productive agricultural units inside cities," explains the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those produced in urban areas are a result of the soils the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who care for the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, local spirit, environment and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.
Mystery Eastern European Grapes
Back in Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant left in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the rain arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he says, as he removes bruised and rotten berries from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Efforts Across the City
The other members of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from about fifty plants. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she says, pausing with a container of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously survived three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from the soil."
Sloping Vineyards and Natural Winemaking
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established more than one hundred fifty plants situated on terraces in her expansive property, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is picking clusters of deep violet dark berries from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly make good, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an old way of producing wine."
"When I tread the grapes, all the wild yeasts are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers add preservatives to kill the wild yeast and then add a lab-grown yeast."
Challenging Environments and Creative Approaches
In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to establish her vines, has assembled his companions to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. However it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole challenge faced by winegrowers. The gardener has had to install a fence on